Click to expand.The TY-145 has a different pin-out than the TY-250P, so they won't work if you are using John's PCB's. Also the TY-145 has max current of 15mA, where the TY-250P has a max current of 4mA. You will have to make several changes to the Trans-Boost circuit to drive 15mA on the primary of the TY-145, we are running the OPA2604 fairly hard to just get the 4mA with a 1K primary load for the TY-250. The freq response for the TY-145 is only 200-15KHz. So if you use the TY-145, you may want to use a negative impedance driver circuit to get a better low frequency response.-Frank. Click to expand.That's a great idea! You should contact the DIYRE guy and make that suggestion for an effect pedal interface.
He may be into it and already has all of the PCB artwork for the module interface. All he would need to do is modify some of the artwork to fit into a Hammond enclosure and change up the power supply to use 9V with a charge-pump for the negative voltage.This idea kinda sounds like that Devi Ever Atari console thing, where FX manufacturers could build cartridges for a standard interface.-Frank.
What is the cheapest passive Direct Box worth buying? Discussion in 'Mixing. I'm curious, how do you turn a DI box into a reamp box? I thought they were two different things, unless that Jensen DIY box is special. I have a Radial JDI (passive, Jensen trannie). Is there a trick to use this as a reamp box? Reggie, Sep 26, 2005 #18.
![Jensen Diy Reamp Jensen Diy Reamp](/uploads/1/2/5/6/125631826/190203815.jpg)
All i can say, thats a big topic with reamping and you shouldnt underestimate it. Before you go out and buy some gear i advice you that you read lots of forums (just google after reamping).It begins with the proper DI box to capture the clean guitar sound onto tape. If you want to split your signal to DI box AND amp (which will be miced and recorded) simoultanously you will get tone loss, buzz and unwanted other effects. You will get that with every DI box more or less.Even if you buy a Hi end splitter like the Lehle P-Split it depends what kind of input impedance your amp and audio cards have (but even if they are about 1 Mohms) you may be not satisfied with the result (e.g. High end roll off, or the feeling while playing the guitar is not the same like connecting the guitar directla to amp and so on).The only way is that you read, read and read, after that you need to test which DI box is working for you. The Red Eye is very good but even that is not perfect.
The best tool for that (from what i read) is the MW1 Studio Tool. Its more than a DI box. Just read the manual of this box.Big$ but maybe its worth it.I suggest you, if you`re planning to keep $ low, then you need a dedicated DI box AND another Reamoing Box. In the first step, buy a DI box which works out for yourself and then buy a reamping device. The second step is not even necesarry because you CAN use the DI backwrds (even if the manufacturer claims that its not the same, there are enough threads out there). I think all the Little Labs stuff is great. I'd love to have a PCP of my own!
Radial gear is killer too. Hard to go wrong with any of it. Or you could build your own.Truthfully, coming from tape/console/interface its not all that hard or expensive to reamp. Basically knock the signal back about 20-30dB from +4Vu nominal, and then you need a hiZ to lowZ transformer. Even one of those $10 rat shack barrels is enough to get the job done.If you're handy with a soldering iron.
Not even skilled, but like 'replacing a pickup' is no problem handy, you can build a passive reamp using the Jensen schematic and one of their transformers.Its about $75 per transformer if you're buying one or two at a time. But that's the heart of the thing and basically the 'meat' of any reamp box.For the majority of my purposes the cheap-o transformers are fine 90% of the time. If I'm sending the drums or lead vocal out to an MXR or ZVex pedal then I'm not too worried about being super hi-fi! Its not the point. +1 on the MW-1. In fact i like the impedance circuit and boost circuit so much i use it with my live rig just for the tone as well. When set right, the reamping sounds just like i was playing it.and not as if i was playing via a series of transformers like with some DI's.its more expensive than a lot of those.but i do think its quite worth it, you can DI one guitar and play through a couple of amps via its instrument outputs, and you can also use the reamp portion and reamp a previously recorded signal and output that into another amp or 2 all at the same time.i'm pretty sure with a few of the others you can only go one way or the other at any given time.
I do however plan on purchasing a redeye sometime in the near future.And don't think i'm bashing any of the others in this post, what i mean is more that the MW1 is the cleanest/purist sounding one i've heard.i would still find a use for all the other ones.cause sometimes a little colour can work some miracles.but the MW1 is the only one i own right now, so its the only one i can really explain.