#09-0074Mini Bates Style LED Taillight Chrome.12 Volt taillight with 8 super bright LED's. Has running and brake light functions. Comes with mounting hardware and swivel bracket which allows it to be angled at different positions.Lens is 1 3/4' round, Outer bezel is 2 1/4' in diameter and is 2 1/4' long, Stands about 3' tall from base of mounting bracket. 3 Wire lead is about 12' long with bullet connectors.(Ground, running and brake light Wiring instructions)RED = StopYELLOW = Running LightsBLACK = Ground.
#09-0075Mini Bates Style LED Taillight Black.12 Volt taillight with 8 super bright LED's. Has running and brake light functions. Comes with mounting hardware and swivel bracket which allows it to be angled at different positions.Lens is 1 3/4' round, Outer bezel is 2 1/4' in diameter and is 2 1/4' long, Stands about 3' tall from base of mounting bracket. 3 Wire lead is about 12' long with bullet connectors.(Ground, running and brake light Wiring instructions)RED = StopYELLOW = Running LightsBLACK = Ground. #09-0084Custom 7' Satin Black Side Mount Headlight Shell with Chrome Trim Ring.
Designed for 7' sealed type headlights. Includes a 3 wire plug that works with sealed beam or H4 bulbs as well as the clip/screw and wire clips.Side mounting holes are threaded to use 5/16-24 bolts (bolts not included). Outer side mounting points are 7' apart.
Seller: dream305 (39,369) 100%, Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Ships to: Worldwide, Item: 93 Here we have a great item! This is a brand new COMPLETE engine gasket set for the now vintage Kawasaki KZ400. This is a very hard to find gasket set for the early models that took a different distinct 'clown-face' shaped head gasket. Nov 25, 2012 1976 Kawasaki KZ400 1976 Honda 750K 1973 Honda CB500K 1973 Honda SL175 1972 Honda SL125. Training Wheels. You might also get oil leaking around the washer if it didn't seal good against both the bolt head and gasket. Valve Cover Oil Leak. COG Memberships Join Now Renew Membership Membership Benefits.
3' Mounting depth from mounting holes to the back of the bucket.Sealed beam Headlight sold separately #09-0008 (Below), or the upgraded halogen beam #09-0051. #09-0087Custom Chrome 4' Dual Beam Headlight Set. Complete universal side mount dual hi/low beam head light assembly. The two high quality glass sealed beam style lights have H4 60/55 watt bulbs along with pilot running lights in each light.
Assembled and pre-wired harness to simply plug into your existing H4 plug.Side mounting bolts hole are threaded for M8 x 1.25 bolts. Total outer width at side mounting bolts in 8 1/2' wide. Center of mounting bolts to rear of the light bucket is 2 5/8' in depth. From the front of the trim ring to the rear of the bucket is about 4 1/2' in depth. #09-0088Custom Matte Black 4' Dual Beam Headlight Set.
Complete universal side mount dual hi/low beam head light assembly. The two high quality glass sealed beam style lights have H4 60/55 watt bulbs along with pilot running lights in each light. Assembled and pre-wired harness to simply plug into your existing H4 plug.Side mounting bolts hole are threaded for M8 x 1.25 bolts.
Total outer width at side mounting bolts in 8 1/2' wide. Center of mounting bolts to rear of the light bucket is 2 5/8' in depth.
From the front of the trim ring to the rear of the bucket is about 4 1/2' in depth.
Hey guys, I got a new '12 C14 in July. Just turned 4k on it, and have just gotten a small oil leak from the front left side valve cover. Just enough of a leak to put a couple of drops of oil on the left exhaust, then it burns off when I start it up. It's going in for work under warranty this next week. Anyone else have issues w/ this?
In talking to the mechanic at the dealer (yeh, I know), and said he has seen a couple of these come in. It's kind of irritating, given my '93 C10 has never leaked any fluids. Bruce:Had the same issue on my 2011, small oil leak from near left exhaust header. Mine didn't leak on the exhaust, but would slowly drip down onto fairing and then drip onto the ground below.
After the shop changed the valve cover gasket with no results, I showed them the post from this forum about it being the 'cam position sensor'. They had to break it all down a second time and apply some sealant to this sensor (according to the post). Now I've got a fairing that's not put back together well (sloppy shop), but at least the oil leak seems to be fixed. This was a real hassle for an otherwise exceptional bike, so I hope there are no other major issues.
Back on the road now at least! Just noticed myself that I appear to have a leak from my valve cover left side as well. Actually had a puff of smoke come off while bike was idling warming up this morning. Looks like around the half moon part of the gasket where it meets the head. Anyhow brake cleaned off the oil blow dried it, rode almost 100 miles today and is bone dry.what the hell?? Where exactly is this cam sensor left side or right side?
Also how long to do a valve cover gasket for those of you who have done one? I'm willing to tackle it myself if need be.sorry not meaning to hijack this posting.thanks! The valve cover bolts all have shoulders on them, and there are several different lengths of bolts used. The shoulders of the bolt bottom out against bosses on the cam shaft holder on the head when you tighten them. The threads are not bottoming out in the head, but the shoulder on the bolt is stopping the bolt from being tightened any further once it bottoms out against the boss on the cam shaft holders.
There is a round rubber gasket under the head of each bolt. The distance between the bottom of the bolt head (which pushes against the valve cover) and the bottom of the shoulder on the bolt (which bottoms out on the boss) determines how much the bolt will compress the valve cover gasket to the head.
No amount of overtightening the bolt will further compress the gasket, and most likely all that will accomplish is to pull the soft aluminum threads out of the cam shaft holders. Furthermore, cutting the bolt threads so the bolt is shorter will also have no effect, since the shoulder depth is what determines how far the bolt can be tightened, so I would NOT recommend you try to shorten your bolts.If it is indeed the valve cover gasket that is leaking (and not the cam position sensor) then you may find that replacing the rubber gaskets that go under the heads of the valve cover bolts would help, because if yours are squished, then it would impact the ability of the bolts to properly tighten the cover. New fresh gaskets might be thicker, and so they would cause the bolt to be more effective when you tighten it. A new valve cover gasket might also help if your gasket has compressed some. You might also be able to put a washer to act as a shim under the bolt heads to try to help, though I haven't ever tried that myself, so I can't say for sure if it would work. You might also get oil leaking around the washer if it didn't seal good against both the bolt head and gasket.You can see the rubber gaskets/grommets under the heads of the valve cover bolts in the photos below.
Its easier to understand a diagram than to try to describe it in words, so I tried to draw a simple one up.This attempts to show a cross section of the valve cover, looking at it from the side. The green line represents the valve cover. The purple is the gasket for the cover, and is also used to show the gasket under the bolt head.The bolt is in black, and the threaded section of the bolt is red. Notice the black outline of the shoulder on the bolt is larger in diameter than the bolt threads.The blue square under the bolt represents the boss on the camshaft holder that the bolt threads into. Note that the shoulder on the bolt bottoms out against this boss.
The brown section is the head that the valve cover sits on.Hopefully this will make it a little more clear. Thank you all for the input, and the diagrams. Today, I took my bike to the dealer that I bought it from, to take care of the leak under warranty.
![Gasket Gasket](/uploads/1/2/5/6/125631826/488778976.jpg)
Back in '80, I had a new KZ1000ST, that would also leak every so often from the left front cam seal. Not having taken my new scoot apart, I can only assume this is where the leak is coming from, judging by what I could see by flashlight, through the gills of the fairing. I'll let the wrench-boys fix it.
Being a dealership, I just hope they don't screw it up. You gotta wonder why all these C14's seem to have this leak in the same corner. The gasket itself?
Mine is apart and the cam sensor area is bone dry but leaking oil left front corner region. Maybe a torque issue? Im torquing mine to 87 inch pounds what it calls for and hope for the best. Also got the correct silicone seal from Kawi for the U sections on the head.
Somewhat a time consuming job, my first time. Next time will be quicker, then adjust valves. I'm not at mileage yet for second adjustment. Just taking my time and hope it'll all be good. Purchased new gasket and all the sealing washers on top from dealer. Finish up this weekend is the plan. Hoping for long term success.
After really getting into for my first time, it took me a good solid 2 hours to finally expose the cover. Not meant for guys with big hands!Leak was worse than I thought, the whole front of the gasket is seeping down the block with the odd drip making it to the header.
Hell of a mess for only 18,000 miles! My 1800 Wing never leaked a drop in 100,000 miles.
Might as well check the valves while I'm in there I thought, a tomorrow job. Anyhow lots of digging to get to it.
A gasket should not leak this bad this early. Must get barbequed in there with the heat maybe. Speed costs money I say.hope this is not gonna be a regular occurrence. These coils are being a real b.tch to get out.
Any tricks or gently pry with a screw driver? Afraid of cracking one. Just grip them with your fingers and twist back and forth while you pull.Be sure you recheck the clearances after you change the shims, I found several of mine still out of spec, because the feeler gauges I used had too large a gap between them. If you don't use feeler gauges that are.01 mm apart from.12 to.24, meaning you have feeler gauges in sizes.12,.13,.14,.15,.16,.17,.18,.19,.20,.21,.22,.23,.24; then you are guessing at the real clearance. Most dealer mechanics and guys that do their own work don't have these and are also bad with math, so they get somewhere close and say, that's good. I believe the problem is exacerbated by the forward tilt of the engine which causes oil to pool in this location of the head, and if parked on the side stand, it will form a pool in the front left corner, so if the seal isn't absolutely perfect in that area you'll have a leak.
What Kawasaki probably should have done is put a oil drain back port hole in the front corners of the head so that the oil wouldn't be able to pool in it, and would instead return to the crankcase.The only other fix I can see would be to find a very thin washer of the proper diameter that you could put under the head of the valve cover bolts so that you could effectively squeeze the gasket a bit tighter. But you wouldn't want one too thick, because you still need the shoulders of the bolt to butt up against the boss in the head, as that provides some additional lateral stability for the bolt. I think 1 millimeter would be about all you'd need to get the rubber seal pressed a bit better.